One issue that I had was that the top of the control sticks came into contact
with the throttle when at maximum deflection and at full forward stick with
the throttle at idle:
If you mount your engine controls under the instrument panel you may encounter this same issue.
The solution was to cut 1 3/4" off the stick length. Here is the clearance
after shortening the stick:
This will give a little heavier stick feel but shouldn't be too detrimental.
The right stick was also shortened to match, as it was contacting the mixture
control knob with the mixture pulled all the way out and the stick at maximum
left aileron and full forward. Now, with 1 3/4" removed from the right
stick, it now has adequate clearance:
With the aileron system control cables all hooked up, we can check that we
have the proper deflection for both ailerons and in both directions. As per
drawing 1, the aileron deflection should be 20 degrees up and 20 degrees
down. This was checked with the dial angle finder gauge. First the
aileron was set at neutral aileron, aligned with the wingtip, control sticks
straight up, and a reading was taken:
The little red marker was positioned as a reference. At this point the dial indicator reads 30 degrees.
The aileron was then moved to maximum downward deflection (stick full right,
in this case) and the dial indicator was checked:
It now reads 50 degrees - (50 - 30 = 20 degrees of "down" travel).
Next the aileron was moved to maximum up deflection (stick full left in this
case) and the dial indicator was read:
Now it reads 10 degrees - (30 - 10 = 20 degrees of "up" travel)
Just right in both directions. That's it for the aileron rigging. Now I'll go back, torque every nut/bolt and put orange torque seal lacquer on the regular nuts, and cotter pins in the castle nuts.
Here is the bellcrank area all finished
Note that there are castle nuts with cotter pins on each of the cable shackles becasue these rotate. The turnbuckle has been safety wired using the Single Wrap method.
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