With that done, and the flap handle in the bottom notch (flaps up position), the cable lengths were adjusted at the cable junction triangle. Its a good idea to have the turnbuckles close to their final threaded position at this point. Remember, turnbuckles should have no more than three threads showing when they are in their final position. To adjust the cable slack, loosen the temporary cable clamps, pull the cable snug but not so tight that you pull the flaps down, and re-tighten the cable clamps.
Now, with the flaps in the up position, a baseline reading was taken with
the angle finder gauge to establish the angle shown with the flaps
About 28 degrees. The little red reference pointer was set to 78 degrees so that I would know when the flaps were at 50 degrees of deflection.
Now the flap handle was pulled all the way to the last notch (flaps fully extended) and an angle measurement was taken. I found that at this point, I had about 54 degrees of deflection, so the flaps were retracted and the cables were re-adjusted a bit to allow just a touch of slack in the flap cables.
The flap handle was again pulled to last notch and a reading was taken.
This time it was exactly 50 degrees:
Here is what the flaps look like in the full down (50 degrees) position:
With the cables correctly adjusted, they were marked for length by making
a mark exactly where the cable should be centered on the turnbuckle eye.
They were then disassembled and the hardware store cable clamps were
replaced with Nicopress sleeves and cable thimbles. Here is the completed
Note that the turnbuckles were safety wired using the single wrap method and castle nuts with cotter pins were used for the cable shackles since they can rotate.
My flap positions measured as follows:
1st notch = 12 degrees
2nd notch = 25 degrees
3rd notch = 38 degrees
4th notch = 50 degrees
Of course this is with no wind loads on them. I suspect these values will be less with a wind load on the flaps.
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